Monday, July 13, 2009

Fin de Semana

Dear Chicago,

This weekend was a blur. Once again full of culture, great food and drinks and lots of late nights! On Friday I had my last class with Analia. Friday night dinner at home with Maria Eugenia and Fernando was great. Salad, giant grilled pork chops and a leek-and-proscuiutto tarta. From dinner I was off to meet MVM and his friend Julian, the guys from the states. We met for drinks at Le Bar in El Centro. Very cool place, I enjoyed my cocktail and it was great to see MVM again!

Saturday - I ventured out to the Museo Fortabat at the urging of Cristina, my 'house mom'. Her girlfriends had been raving about the space and I found myself on a beautiful Saturday afternoon without a destination, for once. Off to Fortabat I went! The museum is comprised entirely of the private art collection of a very, very wealthy woman. (I live on the street of her maiden name and there is a skyscraper here emblazoned with her married name).
I have to say, I was blown away by both the collection and the space! Her image was painted by Andy Warhol:

I had seen the image many times before without knowing she was a powerful Argentine socialite. Her collection contains scupltures and sketches by Rodin and the Turner painting "Juliet and her Nurse" was guarded by as many cameras as the Mona Lisa. I can only imagine. Beruti did portraits of her grandkids and there was more Egyptian art than I would ever have guessed. The building is a beautiful space right on the water in Puerto Madero. The arched glass ceiling has panels that shift as the sunlight moves during the day. An overall pleasure (as was the cafe and 'scon' with chantilly cream I had while waiting for the tour to start. Si, si, I live a charmed life).

On Saturday night I met up with J, C and E for a girls night. We started with a few bottles of red wine in J's awesome apartment - always a great time. From there we went to a bar recommended by a friend of J, "Kim y Novak". A fabulous night of Fernet&Colas, dancing in a random basement space, good conversation and new aquaintances. J taught me more about Guam than I could have imagined, a conversation for which I remain grateful. Home at 6:30 - well done, team!!

Sunday - After a late night out, it was barbaro to sleep in. I awoke to an invitation by my senora and her daughter: they were off to El Tigre for the day, and I was invited! What a joy. Cristina, MariaEugenia and her husband Ferr and I piled into their Renault and were off. An hour drive north is the suburb of El Tigre.

Originally a summer-vacation town for the wealthy of BsAs, El Tigre is the Lake Geneva/Cape Cod of Argentina. Most of the homes are accessible only by ferry, and the downtown is gorgeous. The four of us went to the local art museum and the giant fruit market. It took all my strength not to leave there with a puppy...

After the long day outside and a long drive home, I met MVM from Iowa for dinner. We tried a place that came with a recommendation from a friend, but upon arrival it was less than satisfactory. MVM thought of a place near his hostel in San Telmo and we were off. What a pleasant surprise! We spent a long evening at Del Plata eating some amazing food - chorizo, morcillo (yes, I tasted blood sausage) and a giant rib eye. That, along with a giant Provoleta, rosemary fried potatoes, a bottle of good Malbec and 2 desserts: less than $40US each! Unelievable.

Buenos Aires and the people I have come to love here: thank you for another unbelievable weekend!

Ciao - Besos - Tess

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